Sorry for the reply delay.
On tom tuning it depends on what I am using the toms for (live, studio, etc) and also the depth of the toms. Are the toms fast, power, fusion, or classic - some companies fast and classic are the same, some aren't, but most of the major brands are consistent.
Live work, without triggers, I tend to tune the bottom head a half step lower than the top to increase sustain on my
DW's and the same pitch on my Corder's. I tune both a half-step to two steps higher for studio work - depending on the temperature, humidity levels (though good studios will control both), and the sound needed for a particular piece. The finger pinch technique works well with initial tightening when changing toms heads - and break them in slowly, tune them to pitch, play them for 15 - 20 minutes, then tune them to pitch again, and continue this until the heads have broken in.
Snares can be a trick: you want the bottom head tight enough for good resonance but loose enough for good snare vibration (and don't forget the snare tension adjustments). Because of the differences in materials, heads, depths, and taste - this is something an experienced drummer just has to experiment with, but good rule-of-thumb on a typical size snare (14x4.5 to 14x6) have the bottom head slightly tighter than the top batter head.
The Bass Drum tuning is fairly straight forward (for the lowest pitch), and I am including a link to a video for the technique (please excuse the shameless
Evans product plugs in the video for their muffling systems). I personally do not have port holes in most of my BD resonance heads (the 24x18 Corder being the exception) - I like the closed sound and feel, and tune and muffle my BD's accordingly.
This is just what works for me, and not hard rules for tuning.
Evans has a whole series of videos by Bob Gatzen that have some good basics and techniques on drum set tuning - and I disagree with some of his tuning suggestions, but his mechanical techniques in getting the most out of a drum and head are sound.
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