Old drum help!

stevemac · #1 (**permalink**) 06-19-2011, 07:31 PM

Hey everyone, so I really hate to start a new thread for this. But I have an old drumset, 1947-1949 buddy rich superclassic, not too sure which year. It's in bad shape and I would love to piece it back together. It can be such a beautiful kit with some tlc. What I would like to know is where can I find parts for it? Also the floor toms looking dry. Like the mahogany isn't as rich in color as the other drums. My area was hit by tornados early in in the month and it sat around in the heat for a few days, after being in a climate controlled area. I'm wondering if there's any say polish or wax or oil I could use to restore the natural mahogany look. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

**Tainojim** · #2 (**permalink**) 06-20-2011, 11:05 AM

Try VintageDrums.com or give George's Drum Shop a call for advise. He's located in Memphis. Depending on how much you money you can afford, or it's a DIY project.
Water damage isn't easy to replenish. I've used this product before As for the finishand it really helps allot.

Minwax High Performance Wood Hardener is a quick-drying liquid formulated to strengthen and reinforce decayed or rotting wood. Minwax High Performance Wood Hardener is made up of solvents that carry resin deep into the pores of the wood where they evaporate and leave behind hardened resin resulting in hardened wood. - Recommended uses: windowsills, doors, woodwork, floors, decks, furniture - Cleanup: acetone - Dry time: 2.4 hours, then fill with Minwax High Performance Wood Filler - Application tool: disposable bristle brush.

As for the wood finish, it's more than likely a Laquar finish. Any car polish should do the trick as far as bringing back the luster finish.

It's gonna take allot of elbow grease.

I preffer Unicorn Oil, but first I have to find a Unicorn.

stevemac · #3 (**permalink**) 06-20-2011, 08:12 PM

The finish on the kit is actually a wrap. There is no water damage. Its just the wood looks dried out on the inside of the floor tom. The mahogany color isn't as dark and just looks like it sat in the hot sun for a few days. Im not sure if that will affect the drums sound or not, but i would like it to have the original color wood.

**Tainojim** · #4 (**permalink**) 06-20-2011, 08:27 PM

This product above also works well for Sun Bleached spots.

The wrap finish is usually a form of a Formica plastic finish back in the days.

As I mentioned before, contact these two above and ask them. George Lawrance from Poco is also a member on the forum besides being the owner of George's Drum Shop and the Not So Modern Drummer magazine. They do drum repairs at their drum shop. Just mention Tainojim from Brooklyn, New York City.

Read this Thread, you've got nothing to lose:

Not So Modern Drummer Magazine announces Ohio Drum Show, Snare Drum & Cymbal Olympics

If you can post a picture of it, it would help.

Here is his email address: George@NotSoModernDrummer.com <George@NotSoModernDrummer.com>

jjohnn77 · #5 (**permalink**) 06-20-2011, 08:50 PM

There are many ways to accomplish what you want to do , I did the same thing to an old set several years ago with fairly decient results..First Get a can of boiled linseed oil, Put it on a rag, and wipe it all over the wood, rubbing it well, not to heavy of a coat though, This should bring out some of the original color as well as treating the dried wood, let it stand over night..If the color isn't to your satisfaction, You can go get a can of oil based wood stain, Now the colors of the stain are labled by wood, maple, oak, birch, etc...don't go by this..look at the colors that are displayed on a chart or on the can, then try to get one that is a little lighter than what you want because when the stain goes on, it will be darker that it shows..that should do it. if after you put the stain on and its not dark enough, put another coat of stain on...Just remember, you can always get darker with more coats of stain, But you can not get lighter after its applied...good luck

slingerland59 · #6 (**permalink**) 07-01-2011, 01:21 PM

Thanks for that reply (and for the question!). I've got a vintage Slingerland kit and I wondered about the dryness of the floor tom too. I'll try the linseed oil.

For parts, EBay always has listings for vintage lugs and rims and such. They go for ridiculous prices mind you, but I guess if you do it right, fixing up a vintage kit can be considered an investment.

I've got mine because that's the kit I played 30 years ago. I abused it, so it's not much of a collector's item, but it does sound good. I guess the least I can do is to give it a bit of oil! Are you like me? I love playing drums but I hate maintaining them.

stank · #7 (**permalink**) 07-02-2011, 09:38 AM

Stevemac, can you post some pics of your issues? That may be helpful. I’m new in the drumming world here but I do have a background in acoustic guitar repair and refurbishing. I’ve worked with mahogany, rosewoods, you name it. There are several options depending on what you’re starting with and what you want to achieve. If you just want to replenish the wood, linseed oil, Minwax paste wax (requires a bit more work), even mineral oil will work. There won’t be much color change. If you want to enhance the look or color, blend areas, etc, use re-finishers or restoring type product. I’ve much success with Howard Restor-A-Finish products. http://www.howardproducts.com/restora.htm Stay away from stains, unless you really have a color transition problem, or want to change the color completely. Lastly, except for the oil or wax finishes, you can, and advisable so, apply a protective finish over your previous restoration step. I only recommend lacquer, tongue oil, or shellac, only because of my guitar work. You can use varnish or poly, but if it were me, I wouldn’t. Great for furniture, but this is musical instrument. Oh, whatever you do, you need to do a little light sanding with a fine (between coats type) sandpaper. Again, pics would be nice. Good luck.